Saturday, March 20, 2010

Weather

As I sit here in my room, there is a dust storm passing through Beijing. I am basically trapped in the apartment, afraid to go outside to visit my friends on campus, for fear of killing my lungs. I feel this is a very appropriate time to write about Beijing's weather and pollution. Especially because I know how much Midwesterners love to talk about the weather, and because apparently St. Paul has experienced a batch of 60-degree days which is much warmer than anything I have had here. Since I have been in Beijing it has snowed twice but this is our first dust storm. The two times it snowed were actually not natural snowfalls. It was the result of cloud seeding by the Chinese government. In order clean some of the pollution out of the air every once in a while they launch missiles packed with silver iodide out in Inner Mongolia. These clouds packed with moisture then flush out large amounts of pollution when it rains or snows. It is kind of like a toilet bowl for the skies. So naturally when it rains or snows it is not a pleasant thing, because the city's filth is just falling back on to you. The second time it snowed, I had left my bike outside. The snow that accumulated on it was nasty stuff, most of it didn't even fall off by riding it for 20 minutes. I had to bring it into the apartment building for it to melt off. The next morning, after all the snow had melted off, was when I realized how bad the snow really was. Instead of pools of water that might of formed under the bike, there were pools of dried dirt on the floor!

            When it snows in Beijing it is kind of a big deal. Like any other city that does not receive snow frequently, Beijing's infrastructure and citizens are not equipped to deal with the snow. Traffic is terrible. It is very dangerous to ride a bike because of all the ice patches and the bikes don't have the best traction. Therefore, everybody either drives their own car, takes a taxi, or attempts public transportation. This causes a huge congestion on the streets. One Monday when it was snowing I decided I would simply take a taxi to class. I left my homestay half an hour before classes expecting traffic to be a little slower due to the weather. I discovered that everybody had the same idea as me and I spent 10 unsuccessful minutes searching for a taxi. So then I decided to try the bus, but the busses were also running slow. I must have waited 45 minutes before the appropriate bus showed up to take me to school, then the ride there was also very slow. I ended up arriving to class a full hour late! Ever since that Monday I have avoided taking the bus to get to school for fear of arriving late.

            This dust storm is a different story. As I woke up this morning I could see a yellow tint to the widow peeking out from the curtain. I just assumed it happened to be really sunny, obviously I forgot where I was. In Beijing no such thing exists. When I opened my window I discovered a yellow haze covering the city. It is possible to visibly see the dirt on top of parked cars. The worst part is that it seeps into the house. On top of my laptop there was a thin coat of dust, and every breath I take I notice the dust. My hands also feel dirty. These sandstorms are the result of the desertification of the Mongolian steppes and other lands experiencing drought and that are overgrazed and deforested. These expanding deserts cover a third of China. Before China started cleaning up Beijing for the Olympics apparently the city had a lot of these storms. I don't know how frequent they are anymore but they are pretty disgusting. The worst part is the wind that accompanies the dust. I can't imagine walking the streets and getting dirt blasted at me.

 

A quick note on the pollution here. It is pretty bad. Every morning I look out my window, if I can see the summer palace (on a hill pretty far away) clearly it is a good day, but there are some days that even the building across the street is a bit hard to see. After my first time playing basketball outside I nearly coughed up a lung, it felt like I had asthma. Even on my morning commute to school there is a stretch of road where I always get short of breath.

Chinese Class

Every day I take four straight hours of Chinese. I was able to test into the 320 level, which I think is just where I should be. I am able to understand everything the teacher is saying and at the same time I am learning new vocab and grammar. However the three other students in my class are students who were here last semester and it doesn’t seem as if they really understand everything that goes on. But I can’t say that I am attentive to everything that occurs during class. Sitting for four hours is a very difficult and it is easy to get distracted, unfortunately if you do zone out (even for a few seconds) you instantly become lost and worst of all the teacher know it and calls on you. Thus my attention span as been put to work. I don’t think I have ever had to concentrate this hard for so long. This is an intense ordeal but I am told it will become easier as I get used to it. For the first day of class I spent 4+ hours memorizing 60 new characters, read through a dialogue and learn 10 or so grammatical structures. As the weeks have gone luckily I have been able to cut this time to about 3 hours. We start the class of with the quiz, then move through all the grammatical structures. The last half hour of class or so my class of four divides up into two and we have two students to a teacher, here we are able to read through all the characters with the teacher making sure all of our tones are correct. On the first day of class I discovered that all this time I have been doing my tones incorrect. I am very pleased to have discovered this early and the next day I was not corrected at all on my third tone.

 

The way we are learning Chinese is by topic, some of the topics we have covered have been globalization, unemployment, cultural preservation and traditional habits, traffic issues, the preservation of the environment, poverty and social welfare, and the legal system. These lessons very interesting but at the same time very difficult. Often I find myself trying to express my true opinion but lacking the proper vocabulary to say what I want. Instead we are forced to fall back into sentence patterns and examples that the teacher gives us. We often compare America and China, which is fine because the Chinese teachers want to know more about America, but it really annoys me when they make sweeping statements about the way the US is or the way China is, disallowing any room for nuanced thought. To give one example, just yesterday we were talking about intellectual property rights (知识产权 zhi1shi2chan3quan2 for those interested) and got on the topic of downloading music. I couldn’t quite express that I believe we shouldn’t pay Itunes for them to just pay record companies who then give a fraction of what they earn to the artists. I would rather just have the artists gain all the profits of a song bought online, but since record companies are the ones pulling so much of the profit from music sales I just download music here illegally (which by the way in China is completely legal, in fact their version of Google [Baidu] and Google.cn both have a section [like Google maps or Google translate] that links you directly to mp3s to download). Since I can’t elegantly explain this in Chinese I am just forced to say that I support downloading all music illegally and care nothing for the livelihood of the hardworking musicians.

Contrary to what many of you might think I am not dead!

It is my first free weekend in a while and I have decided to come out from behind China's great Firewall. I realize that my posts have been really scare. This is not because of a lack of topics or news, but rather an overload. I have been overwhelmed with experiences in the month and a half I have been here. So, after not posting for over a month where do I start? I guess the best way would be just to give a rundown of what I have been up to. After spring festival classes resumed and I moved into my Chinese homestay. I have met up with the other Mac students in Beijing; been to the Silk Market twice (knockoff everything usually for less than $20 US); eased my way into using squatters; taken my first Chinese test, started my internship, spent 12 days in Yunnan province, 4 days in a Tibetan village, 5 hours in a spa, and 2 hours using Yaks to plow fields (I would love to know an Iowan farmer's impression on their farming practices) and it wasn't the fertile fields of the Midwest but more of a claylike dirt on the Tibetan Plateau. When we first got here IES made us make goals that we wanted to accomplish in our time in China, this is also a pretty good indicator of what I have been up to and a testament to how busy I have been.  Here is my list with checkmarks next to those that I have finished.

  • Have a successful conversation with a cab driver (X)
  • Improve my awareness and ability to deal with tones (in the process)
  • Bargain with a street dealer to get something at 1/3 of the original offered price (X)
  • Ride a bike during rush hour (X)
  • Avoid any stomach/bowel/digestion problems (laduzi/diarrhea is the infamous one) (It turns out this is nearly impossible in China and I failed this goal)
  • Spend 5+ hours in a Spa (X)
  • Visit Shanghai
  • Eat Korean food in Wudaokou (X)
  • See a live panda
  • Get into the habit of doing Yoga again (X)
  • See old people doing QiGong in the parks in the morning (X)
  • Learn the names of all the Chinese professors at IES (X)
  • Play soccer with some Chinese kids (X)
  • Visit Sichuan
  • Understand how to navigate Chinese versions of Youtube (X)
  • Get a massage (X)
  • Settle into some sort of daily routine (X)

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Superbowl

Watching the superbowl in China was quite the experience. The time difference was just right so that the game started at 7 am on Monday here. There are a lot of American expats here, so we saw a lot of sings around the city advertising superbowl morning specials and happy hours. Unfortunately that same morning we had our language placement exams. So instead of getting up to go watch the superbowl in the main student lounge, I woke slowly, my roommate turned on the TV in our room, and we watched the game as we tried to refresh our memories with Chinese. The Chinese broadcast of the superbowl was at times hilarious, but other times lacking and made me miss the insight of great American commentators like John Madden. Whenever a player does something well they announcers say 很漂亮 (hen piaoliang) or very pretty, but the way they say it is in the most feminine way possible. It was just a very bizarre occurrence to see Peyton Manning get sacked and have them announce how beautiful it was.
They don’t cut away for commercials like in the United States, whenever there is a TV break usually they just show the field, or they simply show one commercial. Most of the time it is the commercials put on by the NFL of athletes doing incredible feats. If anybody has seen them they know what I am referring to. There is one kicker who kicks six balls and is able to precisely hit the posts of the field goal each time. Then there is also a commercial of a player buried to the neck in sand and then able to jump out of it. The only other one I remember is a wide receiver who is blindfolded and then proceeds to catch balls flying at him from every direction. Why these are cool to see, it also furthers the stereotype of blacks in China. Without much contact with black people, Chinese form have formed their impressions of black people from the television. Through these types of commercials have let their imaginations wander into thinking about black people as magical beings who are physically extremely powerful. I haven’t really run into these kinds of thoughts yet but my roommate assures me it is very prevalent.
The halftime show was an instructional program on how to play football. The NFL has an ambassador to China, a former LB who once did his missionary work in China, putting on a camp for Chinese kids to run football drills. In addition to this they tried to explain the rules of the game to the view by a combination of old highlights and the video game Madden NFL. The unique thing about this was that the version of Madden must have been five or six years old, it had the same graphics that I remember playing with back in the day. Unfortunately I had to go take the placement exam after halftime and missed out on the exciting part of the game. I was very pleased to find out after my exam that the Saints had won. But I think the most devastating part about missing the superbowl was that I have not seen most of the good commercials. Youtube is blocked here in China, so I was only able to watch things posted on Yukou (Chinese youtube). The only ones I was able to watch was the Google commercial (which was very very cute) and the Megan Fox commercial (pretty funny). I was able to get both ends of the spectrum and I think it made up for missing the rest of the commercials.

烟花

If you ever get bored with fireworks go to china. I have to admit I have grown to despise fireworks in the United States. It is probably because I was spoiled as a child and saw fireworks frequently while in Spain for their patron saint week, and the fireworks in the US, combined with the cutbacks cities have made in their spending on fireworks for fireworks. After seeing so many as a child, I began to realize that they all seemed to be the same thing, just big loud flashing lights of various colors. Needless to say, in the past few years I have been disappointed with the fireworks, which ruins holidays like July fourth and New Years. However coming to Beijing has completely reversed my opinion on fireworks. Since I arrived a little over a week ago it has felt like I have been living in Baghdad. Everyday I hear some large explosions. As the Chinese new years drew closer the frequency and noise of the fireworks has increased. It all culminated on the day before Chinese new years. It felt if Beijing had actually turned into a war zone. Throughout the day there was continuous explosions. Every block I went I say people setting off fireworks, and I am not talking about the simple sparklers, wildcats, smokers, and worms that we got to play with. They were setting off the huge kind that we usually leave to the city. Basically every neighborhood shoots off as much fireworks as a single city shoots off in the fourth of July. It is something incredible to witness. I was fortunate enough to spend the afternoon eating a dinner with a Chinese family and they told us that the fireworks are all bought privately and that none of it is put on by the government. As midnight drew nearer more and more fireworks were going off. From about 11 until 1 am fireworks were going off nonstop. Not only were the fireworks going off but also car alarms were adding to the celebrations. If your car alarm didn’t go off New Years Eve, it was probably a sign you needed to reconsider your alarm system.

春节 - Chunjie Festival

The most appropriate way to start off this blog is to discuss the new years festival here in China. Right off the bat I will admit that the New Year’s festival (Chun Jie/春节/Spring Festival) is annoying and frustrating. I knew it was first going to be a problem when, on the first day, I was trying to purchase a cell phone. The shop that sells cheap SIM cards was closed, the family had returned to their 老家(Laojia/ancestral home). This has been the case with pretty much every vendor. As the week progressed more and more stores were closing. The biggest drawback this had, has been to my well being. I was looking forward to coming to Beijing and having lots of readily available and cheap food nearby. Instead I have found myself wandering the nearby streets of Beijing in the cold in search of restaurants that are open.
Traditionally Spring festival was the most important Chinese holiday. It is where the stereotypical dragon costumes come from. Usually everything shuts down for people to return home and spend the festival with their family. Fireworks are also a rich part of the tradition. The other custom that has been a more recent development is the New Year’s Gala put on by CCTV. It was apparent that it was a huge thing. All the families were watching it. We watched it with the family with whom we shared dinner, it was playing on the bus ride home, and as we passed restaurants we could se that everybody in the restaurants was situated in front of the TV to watch it. This event would put Dick Clark and Ryan Seacrest to shame, think Chinese opening Olympics but on a scale just a tiny bit smaller.
To celebrate my first spring festival IES took us out to a temple fair. It was located on one of the parks. I think it was the summer palace. Anyways, we wandered around for four hours in 15-degree weather. Other than the food the fair really wasn’t too exciting. In all honesty it looked as if the Chinese had taken one of Minnesota’s pride and joys, the state fair, sinicised it and decided to hold it in the dead of winter. They had the arcade zone, the food alley, and various performing areas. The games were all typical games found in the US so we skipped those and went to the important the section, the food. I had two Xinjiang chuanr, some doughnut hole looking things, two Jianbings, and a scorpion for under five US dollars! For anybody wondering, the scorpion tasted like the shell of a shrimp, and it was about 2 ½ inches long. As I ate it I had three Chinese guys with video cameras come up to me to record the ordeal. I will try to post pictures later once I figure out how. I will go into more depth on the food in later posts, I just wanted to show the wide variety of foods offered.
Being photographed was a theme throughout the morning. We were at this performance where two men were supposedly wrestling, but it looked more like a combination to WWE drama, with some flips and a lot of attempts at tittie twisters. While we were watching the announcer called us out. The whole crowd turned to stare at us and laughed. We didn’t catch much of what he said, and ended up leaving after he called us out three times. At another performance people were lifting up two people using their heads. We were once again called out and the biggest guy in our group (a six-three, two-fifty something football player) stepped forward. After successfully lifting up these Chinese people he is greeted by a swarm of Chinese people asking for his picture and autograph. He became an instant celebrity at the fair. The performance I really wanted to see was the cock and ram fights, unfortunately we ran out of time.
In the afternoon I accompanied two other students living in the dorms to a friends homestay house. From his room you can see the birds nest and the Olympic pool. It was a really cool view. At the apartment we mostly just sat awkwardly talking English among ourselves, but as the day progressed and the festive drinks started flowing we all started conversing in Chinese. It quickly became apparent that I knew the most Chinese out of the four American students so served as the translator whenever something couldn’t be conveyed, and when I failed luckily I had my Ipod touch with a handy Chinese/English dictionary that saved the day. The father left early to be with his ill father, so that just left the mother and us to chat. Before dinner we helped make 100 jiazi/dumplings. I received a 不错 (not bad but much more positive) for my jiaozi making skills. Remind me to thank Jin Laoshi when I get back to Mac. Jiaozi are a very traditional Chunjie dish, but before we were even able to start cooking the jiaozi we had to make our way through ten other traditional Chun Jie dishes. One of them was a fish in tomato sauce, of which we were not supposed to finish because it is good luck to leave it for the next day. If I remember correctly the significance is that there will always be bountiful food. Probably the most notable dish was the radish (?? Some white crunchy vegetable) braised with a lot of wasabe. Drinking baijiu, beer, and red wine is supposedly the magic trifecta during Chunjie. However, since our family were not really big drinkers we only had some beer and the girls were served the red wine. This was nothing compared to the stories I heard from some of my other friends at other homestays who were served ridiculous amounts of baijiu a Chinese liquor distilled from sorghum, usually between 40 and 60% alcohol. After the first course the mother asked us what we like to do, on girl answered singing and dancing, so then we were asked to put our skills on display. The first girl sang an impressive rendition of a Chinese song. The next girl, a former gymnast, did some cartwheels until the mother started to worry that the girl might get sick from flipping so much right after eating. This whole time I was trying to buy more time. I couldn’t think of any special trick, I can’t do any dance moves, and I didn’t really know any lyrics to songs off the top of my head. The next kid stood up and did a magic trick. At this point I was so desperate I told a girl to look up the Macarena on her phone because that was the one choreographed slide that I remember my parents forcing me to perform as a child. Luckily she couldn’t find it and the mother decided we should try and eat the jiaozi. After the jiaozi we went out into the streets to light our own fireworks. They weren’t the big impressive ones, but they were still fun. My fuse broke so I had to light the firecracker and run as fast as possible. As we were headed back to the apartment we realized that no on had grabbed the keys so we were locked out and had to wait until her husband returned. We took advantage of the time to wander over to the Olympic complexes. It was amazing to see streets empty of people (a rarity in Beijing) and these big buildings lit up with various flashing lights. Exhausted from the day we returned to the dorms and then attempted to fall asleep with fireworks exploding every couple of minutes. Sorry for the length, I will definitely keep the posts shorter from here on out.